Noon Position: 48 40S 43 54W
Course/Speed: SE 7+
Wind: WNW 25
Sail: Twins poled out, heavily reefed
Cabin Temp: 61
Water Temp: 51
Miles last 24-hours: 164
Miles since departure: 8754
We’ve been sailing with the twins poled out for three and a half days.
It’s a fine way to make miles.
The Commodore, whose father, Warwick Tompkins wrote 50 SOUTH TO 50 SOUTH, tut-tutted when he saw Mo’s sail configuration. His boat, Flash Girl, was undergoing a refit at KKMI in Richmond at the same time Mo and I were ... Read More
Noon Position: 48 42S 47 48W
Course/Speed: ESE 5
Wind: WNW 10
Sail: Both headsails poled out
Sky: Overcast, squalls to windward
Cabin Temp: 65 (because I’m baking bread)
Water Temp: 49
Miles last 24-hours: 89
Miles since departure: 8590
I put myself on short sleep last night because the weather forecast called for an increasing wind that would shift into the west. Both big headsails were poled out at the time, Mo could be easily overpowered, and I wanted to be ready to take action if needed.
Each hour I rose, it was ... Read More
Team Figure 8 Made a bit of an error and missed this post. Instead of depriving you we decided you should get to read it too.
Noon Position: 51.53S 56.36W
Sail: Big genoa out full
Cabin Temp: 56
Water Temp: 47
Miles last 24-hours: 149 (previous 24-hours: 159)
Miles since departure: 8144
The south is dealing gently with me these first few days as if it can sense my ambivalence.
Wind on port quarter has been 15 to 30, and I’ve run with the working jib only, making way to ... Read More
Noon Position: 49 27S 49 11W
Sail: Both headsails poled out full, flopping around
Bar: 1002, steady
Sea: Small rollers from the N and SW
Cabin Temp: 60
Water Temp: 48
Miles last 24-hours: 92
Miles since departure: 8501
Some birds are more curious than others. The Wandering Albatross, for example, can’t be bothered. It approches until it recognizes that odd object on the horizon that is not a wave and is not a fish. “Oh, a boat; never mind.” And then it glides away with as much effortlessness as it used ... Read More
Noon Position: 49 47S 50 44W
Sail: Big Genoa out full
Cabin Temp: 60
Water Temp: 46
Miles last 24-hours: 161
Miles since departure: 8409
I call them Blue Blobs, the windless regions one has to contend with in sailing from here to there. Granted, on my weather app, they are more purple at their worst, but Blue Blob has stuck.
I saw this one coming and had a plan. I’d sail up to 50S on my now usual course NE, and then I’d pole out the headsails ... Read More
Noon Position: 51 06S 54 39W
Sail: All plain sail, close hauled
Cabin Temp: 67
Water Temp: 49
Miles last 24-hours: 104
Miles since departure: 8248
It’s been a day of change.
I woke to find Mo making slow way to the SW, the opposite of the course we had been following a mere two hours earlier. Winds had been light all night, and the main slatted now and then in the calms, but somehow the boat had managed to follow this transition, a perfect 180 degrees, without ... Read More
Day 62 (days at sea, not counting days in Ushuaia)
Noon POS: 53 23S 59 46W, under the Falklands
Course and Speed: NE7
Temp: cabin, 56; Water, 47
A blog for Jan 11 and 12…
At the office of the Prefectura (Coast Guard), the captain waggled his finger when I showed him my exit papers, completed and signed in advance so as to expedite the process. I was breathless from the three flights of stairs and clearly in a hurry, and there is nothing bureaucracy hates more than hurry.
“The man for ... Read More
Noon Position: 55 58S 62 52W (roughly 200 miles E of Ushuaia)
Course Speed: NE 8+
Wind: WNW 20 – 25
Temp: 53, cabin; 43 water
Mo and Randall have made their escape from Ushuaia, Argentina, and are now thoroughly at sea. In the late morning, the last sight of land, sharp ink spots on a horizon layered in gray, the sinking of Isla de Los Estados.
After entering the South Atlantic via Canal Beagle in the afternoon of yesterday, I ran all night due east on a west wind so as ... Read More
“…ships and men rot in port,” wrote Tony Gooch last week. And then, “I hope you have rested well and are recuperated. But do recall, you have an appointment with Cape Horn three months hence.”
A brief note bordering on terse but well-timed and written from the experience of one who’s made, and forced himself to leave, many a beautiful foreign port. For nothing is easier to adapt to than comfort nor easier to forget than future trials, even if they are of one’s own choosing.
From her berth in Ushuaia, Mo’s interior is dry and warm and mostly motionless. ... Read More
January 1st, Ushuaia, Argentina
“Option one…” I said to my wife, Joanna.
The waiter laid down a lunch-pail sized cut of lamb that had just come from the fire and smelled of ash and grease and rosemary and made my mouth water. Along with it came three types of chorizo and roasted salmon and a small bowl of mussels cooked in oil and garlic and tomatoes and another of lentils. Then he opened the ubiquitous Malbec from Mendoza. When he at last concluded his presentation, I continued.
“…is to sell the boat, return home and grow cabbages.”
“You were that ... Read More