Cambridge Bay Escape

27 Aug

August 25, 2019
Cambridge Bay
Nunavut

Sunday morning. I am kick-the-dog frustrated. Wind is still hard and cold from the SW, day after day, relentlessly the wrong way, pinning us down in Cambridge Bay. And it is the same for as far out as the forecasts care to predict. How can we get home in such a wind?

From the cockpit, I can see a lone wooden platform on the beach near the tank farm, the cradle in which this boat stood the winter of 2014/15, now old and gray as driftwood. It’s a sign, I think, inviting Mo’s return. ...

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Cambridge Bay Contrary

25 Aug

August 24, 2019
Cambridge Bay
Nunavut

The blow blew itself out overnight, but weather has continued to be unsettled. Today, strong winds from the SE, rain and a heavy, ragged cloud. In the morning I shifted Mo to the pier in town for fuel only to find the wind increasing still and the pier foaming with chop. 

Thinking I could dinghy in for fuel, I anchored near town and just off where Amundsen’s Maud came to rest so many years ago. But the berth was too small, and it felt unwise to leave the boat in such blustery conditions.

So, ...

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Musing on the Strength of Anchor Chain During an Arctic Gale

24 Aug

August 23, 2019
Cambridge Bay, Nunavut
69 06N 105 09W

Sitting out a gale at anchor is not the same as riding out a gale at sea. In the former case, one is moored in a secure harbor as the storm rolls over, and in the latter, he is being swept along with the forces of nature like a butterfly on an afternoon breeze. But which is safer is an open question.

The adage that contains “any port in a storm” would suggest that given his druthers, a sailor would choose safe haven over running off every time. But this ...

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Cambridge Bay Achieved

23 Aug

August 22, 2019

Mo with Alioth in tow rounded the corner into Cambridge Bay at 11pm last night. Alioth came to anchor over a forty foot shelf in the bay’s West Arm, and Mo took a berth a few hundred feet further on. Another consort to Alioth, Mandragore, also took shelter nearby. 

Shelter. Because change is coming. 

The barometer has been falling slowly but without hesitation for three days. It’s high was 1024mb, and as I type, it reads 985.5mb with no sign of finding bottom. By way of suggesting that such a fall must presage apocalypse, the ice guide, ...

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DON STREET’S IOLAIRE: Lost On the Coast of Ibiza

23 Aug

I heard glimmerings of this on the interwebs and immediately contacted Don, who obliged with a detailed release and obituary, most of which I’m publishing below. I don’t want my headline to confuse anyone. Iolaire, when she went down late last month after an accidental jibe off Ibiza, actually did not belong to Don anymore. After more than half a century of ownership, he sold her about 10 years ago. She had several notable owners over her long career (check this useful Classic Sailboats post for a full list), but Don was certainly the most notable and also owned ...

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Hampton ICW Snowbird Rendezvous

22 Aug

October 17-20, 2019

The very popular and successful “Hampton Snowbird Rendezvous” is returning to Hampton, VA, after a year’s hiatus.  This rendezvous draws cruisers from across the North East, Mid-Atlantic and eastern Canada for four days of social functions and ICW cruising-related educational seminars. It is the place to meet, socialize, learn about cruising the ICW and buddy boat with fellow ICW travelers. This event,  sponsored by the City of Hampton, is a cruiser organized and run event.

Learn the secrets of traveling the Intracoastal Waterway from Tom Hale, (SAIL Magazine, and co-leader of the SAIL Rally down the ICW ...

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Yacht Devices J1708 Engine Gateway brings data from older engines to NMEA 2000

22 Aug

 

When I bought Have Another Day I really wanted the data from my early electronically controlled diesel engines available on my MFDs. I’ve had access to this data previously and knew the value of the data for fuel management and engine monitoring. My path to getting that data wasn’t easy but I think I helped blaze a trail to easy engine data on your NMEA 2000 network.

Have Another Day came equipped with Volvo-Penta electronic displays

The monochrome 4″ electronic engine displays that came on board Have Another Day only display a few pieces of data at a time ...

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Cambridge Bay, Almost

22 Aug

August 21, 2019

This log is out of order because I can’t keep up given current happenings. So, a short update now and a more thorough report in coming days.

Mo and I are still closing The Crux of the Matter chapter by an entry into Cambridge Bay. Here awaiting us are a few nights of consistent sleep, the replenishment of our fuel supplies, and hopefully a stroll through town. 

Sadly, hamlets in Arctic Canada contains no brew pubs, and though Cambridge Bay has taken a large step toward metropolitanization by the installation of two restaurants, the last I was ...

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ICEBEAR Offshore // Heading South Again

22 Aug

'19.07.10_Morning Upwind_2500.jpg

I’m writing from the little ‘stuga’ in Åland, sat in a grey living room chair with my feet propped up on the coffee table and the laptop, well, in my lap. The cabin belongs to Mia’s best friend Johanna’s dad, and is situated on a lovely little peninsula amongst pine trees and moss-covered forest, overlooking a small inlet which eventually, after myriad twists and turns, leads out to sea and into the Baltic.

We’ve got a lot of history here. Åland was the first place I visited outside of Sweden, when I first came to Sweden in 2007. We celebrated ...

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The Crux of the Matter, I

20 Aug

Aug 16th
4:30am
Underway from Graham Harbor

All day the sea birds are flying the other way. They are headed out of the ice maze, out into Lancaster, back into Baffin and south. Winter migration has begun. All the while, Mo pushes further into the heart of it.

Last evening’s ice charts show improved conditions. Above Bellot, the ice is about 3/10ths for long stretches, but below there’s still a tongue of 7/10ths above Tasmania Islands.

And then there’s the difference between the report and actual. Alioth is a day ahead of Mo by now, and Vincent reports, “We just ...

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