7 Jul

Canadian chart catalogue

Having decided that part of this summer’s cruising program on Lunacy will involve a two-week jaunt over to Nova Scotia and back, it dawned on me that I needed to make sure I actually have charts for Nova Scotia. In the previous century, which really wasn’t that long ago, this would have been a simple process. I would consult my ever-growing stack of paper charts, discover I had no relevant charts, and then call the Armchair Sailor in Newport. These people were personally known to me, and I was known to them. I would say: “Hi! Howzit going? I’m sailing to Nova Scotia. I need coverage from Yarmouth to Halifax.” And two days later my charts would arrive in the mail.

No fuss, no muss. Alas, the Armchair Sailor is no longer, a victim of the Internet Revolution, and procuring charts is no longer so easy.

This is how the process runs now:

Step 1: Check the current inventory. Nope. No paper charts, and the chart card in my antique (read 7-year-old) Raymarine A65 chartplotter does not cover any part of Canada. But here! That Navionics chart app I purchased for my iPad does include Nova Scotia and indeed all of Canada.

Question: Is this all I need? Answer: Say what? I have never successfully navigated anywhere on my iPad, I can’t really read its screen in daylight, and its GPS receiver (if it has one; I’m still not really sure about that) can’t work belowdeck.

Yes, I know some people navigate exclusively on iPads now. But we know what happens to them! Take, for example, the sad story of John Berg, who lost his Nordic 40 Seaquel on the coast of Hawaii just last month. He was running an iPad with iNavX software, was approaching a waypoint outside a harbor, and… Whoa! All of a sudden the tablet screen was taken over by Apple, who wanted him to log into FaceTime and iCloud for some reason. No matter what he tried he couldn’t clear the screen, and next thing you know…

Seaquel aground

He’s up on the reef! Poor Seaquel in extremis

Seaquel destroyed

And they couldn’t get her off, so she was destroyed by earth-moving equipment and hauled off to the dump. Apparently, the boat was also partly looted by locals beforehand

No sir! I want paper charts, plus I want a Canadian chart card for my plotter, and maybe along the way I’ll practice with that iPad thing, which I have never understood, because there are no written instructions for it, and the only way to figure out how it works is through a long tedious process of trial and error.

Step 2: To figure out what paper charts I need I google “Canadian charts” and quickly find the webpage of the Canadian Hydrographic Service. Clicking on “Paper Charts” I am led in a few more mouse clicks to a PDF chart catalogue (see image up top, which actually represents only a tiny portion of the catalogue) that is very hard to read on a computer screen. After much zooming in and out and rotating this way and that, I at last extract the numbers for the eight paper charts I would like to have onboard for my cruise.

Step 3: Actually buying the charts at first looks easy. I press the How To Purchase button on the CHS paper-chart page and I’m led to a dealer-locator function that tells me the nearest dealer to me is the West Marine store in Seabrook, New Hampshire, just a few miles down the road from my home.

Brilliant! I call them up, read them my list of chart numbers, and am put on hold. Many long minutes later I am told the store has no Canadian charts of any description and that I should instead call this particular number at West Marine HQ and they will print out the charts for me and send them on post haste.

OK. That doesn’t sound so bad. So I call that magic number, again read out my list of chart numbers, and am again put on hold. Many long minutes later I am told West Marine doesn’t really sell Canadian charts, has no ability to print out charts of any description, and that what I really need to do is check out Bluewater Books & Charts in Ft. Lauderdale.

Step 4: I am familiar with Bluewater Books. They are the people who bought the Armchair Sailor in Newport and later closed it down. I have tried to buy charts from them before, with no success, so now I am getting wary. I check their website and see they do indeed purport to sell the charts in question, but that delivery for some of them may be delayed, which suggests an inventory problem.

Best then to call and see what the situation is. So I do that and, even before I get to read out my chart numbers, I am put on hold.

Many long minutes later I am still on hold, listening to elevator music. The people on the other end still have no idea why I’m calling. This, I remember, is what happened last time, and that I never got anyone to ever help me on the phone. So I press zero a few times, trying to get back to a live person.

That doesn’t work, so I figure I might as well load a shopping basket on the website while I wait. This turns out to be incredibly difficult. The system is very balky and cumbersome, there are many steps involved in locating and depositing each chart in my virtual basket, and in all it takes about 20 minutes to complete the job.

Meanwhile, I am still on hold on the phone. I hang up, dial the number again, and I am once again put on hold before I can explain that I have already been on hold for at least half an hour.

What the hell. Let’s just buy this stuff and see what happens. So I attempt to buy the eight charts I have placed in my basket, and at the end of the process I am stuck on a frozen page, with no acknowledgement that I have purchased anything. I know better than to press Buy again, so I wait about an hour to see if an e-mail confirmation comes through. Nothing comes, so I have to assume I have not purchased the charts.

Step 5: I resolve never again to buy anything from Bluewater Books for as long as I live and figure I might as well try Boxell’s Chandlery in Boston. Many moons ago I bought charts from them, and they were reliable, knowledgeable, and courteous. I find their website online, and though they do claim to have Canadian charts, and there is a mechanism for buying them online, I note the online shopping function looks positively neolithic and the site hasn’t been updated in seven years. So I dial their phone number to do a reality check. No answer. The phone rings forever, and there isn’t even voice-mail. I dial several more times over the course of the day. Same result.

Step 6: Having now spent a few hours on the problem without getting anywhere, I give up for the day. The next morning, however, I get a promotional e-mail from Landfall Navigation and am reminded by this that they too sell charts. I check their website and find a complete list of Canadian charts with no warnings about delivery delays.

I try loading a basket with my eight paper charts. It is a relatively easy process, and when I click Buy at the end I actually get an acknowledgement. Thirty seconds later another acknowledgement appears in my e-mail box.

Greatly heartened by this, I search their site to see if they have Canadian chart cards for my A65 plotter. Yes, they do! So I plop that in another shopping basket, along with a Canadian tide-table book and a copy of the 2014 Nautical Almanac, press Buy again, and again receive appropriate acknowledgements.

Step 7: Four days later I have received no follow-up notice from Landfall telling me my items have shipped, so (with some trepidation) I try calling them on the phone. Bingo! I’m talking to a human within seconds, and they don’t put me on hold. What a thrill that is.

What I learn is that three of my paper charts, the tide tables, and the almanac are not in stock and have been back-ordered. Hopefully they’ll be ready to ship in five days. Meanwhile, the chart card and five paper charts are good to go.

“Will I have everything within 3 weeks?” I ask, as this is when I plan to leave.

“You should,” comes the answer.

So here I am, keeping my fingers crossed.

A65 chartplotter

The old Raymarine A65. I’m quite fond of mine actually, as the controls really are pretty intuitive, and I rarely need to consult the manual, which does actually exist. I have mine mounted below, simply because there really is no room for it in Lunacy’s cockpit. In the cockpit I just keep a paper chart handy and eyeball stuff with that, the old-fashioned way

iPad nav display

An iPad nav display. It looks like a plotter, but isn’t. It comes with no instructions, and the software is often updated, so functions often change, which means sometimes you have to figure out how to use it all over again. And apparently you don’t have control of what’s on the screen; Apple does

During this arduous quest, I was of course asking myself, do I really need all this stuff? And I decided I do. I want it all–the paper charts, my chartplotter, and of course I’ll take the iPad and its charts. I might go without the plotter, if push came to shove and for some reason that card I bought doesn’t actually work, but I’d feel very uncomfortable going without paper charts.

As for poor John Berg, former owner of Seaquel, I should give you a little more background on him. He really does rely on electronics to navigate, as he is blind. Evidently all his electronics are rigged to talk to him. He did have one sighted crew member on board when he lost the boat, but apparently what happened was the two of them got lost in tunnel-vision trying to clear the iPad screen.

John Berg

Mr. Berg, though blind, has been cruising his boat for 14 years and is highly experienced. To his credit, he takes complete responsibility for what happened to Seaquel

I should note, too, that Berg evidently wasn’t relying solely on his iPad. The story in Latitude 38 I linked to above says there was also a chartplotter onboard displaying NOAA charts, but these, for reasons not specified, “proved inadequate.”

I don’t know about you, but I’d sure like to know what that means.

PS: Berg isn’t the only one to have lost a boat due to iPad reliance. Please remember the story of the Swan 48 Wolfhound, which was abandoned (at least in part) due to a lack of iPad battery power.

PPS: The modern retail experience–and this is true of everything, not just charts–truly does suck. I could prove this by describing all I had to go through to purchase my current iPad, but that would be cruel and unusual punishment. I can only pray that this is only a phase we’re going through and that someday retailers will rediscover the concept of customer service.

PPPS: I nearly forgot to mention–I assume the trick to avoiding Berg’s fate iPad-wise is to turn on Airplane Mode while navigating so Apple can’t contact you. But would this also turn off the iPad’s GPS? Can anyone tell me that?

This article was syndicated from Wavetrain


  1. El

    @ TJ
    how about a challenge? You use your sooper-dooper electronics with empty batteries and failed 12/110 V system and I use a paper chart to find that cave your mentioning.

  2. JB

    I look at paper charts of the places I want to go and they have not been updated for 20+ years at times, and neither have the electronic charts… My point is, navigation is about knowing where you are vs. knowing what you think is there. To be considered prudent, all schools of thought require vigilance and a willings to be out there on the edge.

    “You know what’s out there? Wind and rain, and some damn big waves, reefs and rocks, sandbars, and enough fog and night to hide it all.”
    “So why the hell do it?”
    “It builds character Mr. Preston of which you are in desperately short supply. The kind you only find on mountaintops, and deserts, and battlefields, and across oceans.” ~ White Squall.

  3. TJ

    Have you heard of the La Brea Tar Pits? Your friends are waiting. Nobody discusses the draw backs of writing with today’s tools like a pen, paper, a word processor versus scratching on a cave wall with a stone. Can we get past the paper chart versus electronic issue? Or do we have to wait for all of the dinosaurs to find the tar pits?

  4. Jeff Herriman

    It is extrememly unfortunate that the sailing world has changed to this situation. Sailing requires a skipper to be extremely practical in thinking, exercise, and attention. The unpopularity of paper charts leading to the reliance on electronics is a fools errand. Convenience (through electronics)has led to lack of attention that costs boats and lives. I look at car adds now telling me they can park themselves and avoid accidents. When are we going to get boats that dock themselves? Too scary for me. It is my sincere request that a reputable paper chart firm establish itself and is profitable. Lets start a campaign by asking our fellow navigators if they have charts on board?
    My 2 cents

  5. Craig Ramsey

    Dunno about Canada, I thought the USCG still requires paper charts be on board.
    I too question why you didn’t try to purchase the charts from a Canadian source. Seems logical.
    Airplane mode disables the GPS in my iPad2. Location Services requires WIFI be enabled but not connected to the Web.

  6. Ron

    I did not read article as a tech complaint but as an indictment of traditional service that has been declining for the past 20 years or so. What annoys me is when my computer crashes and I call for help a message tells me to contact our website???!!!

    Also as an opportunity for some creative entrepreneur to buy a printer and sell charts… and SERVICE. Well writen article. I could certainly relate to it.

  7. Harold Kloosterman

    I am puzzled as to why you did not order your charts from the Canadian Hydrographic Service? Or a Canadian supplier of paper charts?

  8. Shorty

    Landfall is good. Chase Leavitt in Portland has Canadian but no fancy website, just a phone. Call, ask, get info, get charts. This is THE cruising guide for Nova Scotia. Peter sells direct on a CD, previous hardcover additions fetch $100+ but there’s not enough market to print.

  9. Bob

    The have both a US and Canadian website. They appear to stock all Nova Scotia charts paper and electronic as well as tide tables, sailing guides etc. service has been very good when I purchased from them (I have no connection with this store).
    Also I’m sure the possibility of success would have increased many times if the author contacted a Halifax chandlery.

  10. Robert Dale

    Good article. I keep and use both paper and electronic charts. Like books and newspapers, there is something about being able to touch and hold the actual article that appeals strongly. As for the online retail experience, you have both my sympathy and I empathize. The absolute beat experience I have had was with Bay Marine Supply. I was trying to buy a new battery charger and related gear and was getting nowhere fast. I decided to send an email and “let them know what I thought of their online checkout system”. Although it was 11:30pm on a Sunday night, I left my name and phone number. Within 10 minutes, my phone rang. It was nobody other than Alan Ferber from Bay Marine, apologizing profusely about the bad service (he explained they were doing site maintenance late on a Sunday night – makes sense) and promised to fill the order ASAP. They did and earned another several hundred dollar purchase from me 2 weeks later. The orders shipped quickly, were well packed and arrived with full documentation. Beautiful.

    S/V Cheers

  11. joe cooper

    Land fall IS great. FOR what it is worth the guys and girl on the 40 meter Tri, Spindrift” who will, when the weather says so, attempt a west-east assault on the absolute Trans At speed record, trying to break 3 days 15 hrs and change, do carry paper charts.

  12. SheltieJim

    I am a firm believer that “no prudent sailor relies on only one source of information”, particularly navigation information. When I sail to someplace I’ve never been before, I try hard to have recent Navionics charts on my Raymarine plotters (plural), paper charts (from two or more sources, if possible), NOAA charts on my laptop (running OpenCPN), and at least one charting application on my phone and/or tablet. I’ve been amazed at the differences between various charting media with respect to depths, positions of navaids and hazards, etc. Having multiple sources of information can be confusing — and it increases the temptation to get so caught up in resolving the differences that one forgets to actually navigate in the real world! But, when used appropriately, multiple sources reduces the likelihood that important information is not known when needed.

  13. Paul Harmina

    The best place to get paper charts is Maryland Nautical in Baltimore, MD
    ( 1-800-596-7245.
    I have gotten charts from the for Hawaii and Fanning Island. They are the main supplier for charts for the shipping industry so they should be able to get you Canadian charts. Hope this helps.
    Captain Paul

  14. Rick

    Landfall Navigation is a great source for paper charts. I have been slowly building my paper chart inventory of Nova Scotia for an eventual cruise.

  15. Michael

    You can turn off cellular data and WIFI separately on an iPad and this will leave the GPS on as well as help with battery life. However, if you are using the iPad as a main nav tool, you should be smart enough to have external power and backup plan for both the batteries and an iPad failure. As an airplane pilot, we use iPads for airport info and high-tech airnav, but I (pilot and sailor) would always keep the paper charts with me (required) and familiar to me – as these low-tech tools don’t have pop-up dialog boxes, batteries or hard-to-read screens.

  16. Jeff Grossman TwoCanSail

    Overall: thanks you Charles for raising these issues. The current state of marine electronic navigation is a mess. My degree is in Computer Engineering and sometimes it takes all my education to understand what the E displays are actually showing, or to get them to do what we want, and/or to make sure they are the proper software release and that all the software levels match.
    Re: iPad navigation. We have used them very successfully from Houston to Buffalo to the Virgin Islands, on dozens of different boat types, ICW, coastal and offshore, and have many times had our position shown precisely on the NOAA raster charts on the iPad while our Navionics based plotters have us on land. BTW on a recent delivery around South Florida we found well over a dozen Navionics chart errors that were correct on the raster charts, some significant, like 12′ differences in started bridge / power line clearances and the Marco island Junction buoy in the wrong place and mislabeled.
    The key to having an iPad for navigation is disabling the cell connection. To have the built in, independent GPS, one has to order the iPad version with cell ability, but you don’t have to turn on/ subscribe to it. Sequel most likely was doing fine until they got within cell range when that system took over. We never have that problem with ours. Also , our iPad GPS works very well below decks (fiberglass) in fact much better than any handheld GPS. This is due to a different antenna design on the iPad that takes advantage of the iPads larger form factor. The iPad, like ALL electronic Nav instruments, are AIDS to navigation and none should be ones only resource. Like you, we always carry papercharts!
    When was the last time any of those reading this, actually READ the opening Raymarine screen that you press Accept for everytime you turn it on?

  17. David Popken

    I use an iPad mini with bluetooth Dual gps and Seaiq, but I have paper charts, a laptop with usb gps and Open Cpn, plus a Garmin handheld plotter. The Garmin has saved the day when the iPad was down below charging. Other than needing a charge from time to time, it has worked well.

  18. Bob

    Take out the SIM card, turn off wifi, gps works fine. I use mine like that all the time, but rely on paper charts and my Raymarine C120W for real navigation. The ipad is more for entertainment.

  19. LennyR

    I, too, have found Landfall Navigation excellent to deal with and recommend making it the first stop in meeting out-of-the-ordinary navigation needs.

    One bedrock principle of good seamanship is never, but never, leave home without (reasonably) up-to-date “paper” charts aboard–and know how to navigate using them without any electronically based information.

    Electromagnetic shocks such as lightning can fry all of your electronics in a microsecond, and the GPS system can be degraded or even go down for for a number of reasons, including espionage and national security.

  20. James Morrison

    West Marine’s Shelter Island store in San Diego used to print charts on demand – anything you wanted, worldwide. Not anymore. For better or worse, it’s an electronic world now. I use a Simrad chartplotter with radar overlay but always have paper chart backup, taking a traditional fix every hour.

  21. Peter

    I don’t own an Ipad. I use a netbook with Tiki Navigator and purchased electronic Canadian Charts on cd. I connected a usb gps antenna and this set up works great. I wanted to comment on your experience with customer service. I find most of my experiences with American businesses quite easy. While you may feel service is slipping, I find most Canadian retailers make you feel like they are doing you a favour by selling something to you. I feel totally taken for granted.
    Let’s hope our experiences do improve.
    Fair Winds

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