28 May, 2017
I put too much hot sauce on my leftover rice & beans just now. ‘Jack’s Bay Pepper Sauce’ from St. Croix. Really tasty, but runnier than anticipated out of the bottle, which I shook with a tad too much fervor. My lips are tingly.
Isbjorn is running down the miles on the home stretch. 300 miles to Horta. Under another dark black sky, just a few stars peaking out through some misty cloud cover, she veritably FLIES along, touching double-digit surfs and doing a steady 8.5 in the lulls. We bravely have the spinnaker up, ‘Ol ... Read More
Thursday May 25
Midnight watch. A new day. Wind WSW 10-15. Isbjorn is running at 6.5 knots on starboard, the genoa poled out to weather, rolling in an annoying cross swell still leftover from Monday’s gale.
I have the first half (0000-0200), Mia will come on for the second half. Unless I’m feeling particularly inspired, in which case I’ll stay up longer. We enacted this new ‘shared’ watch routine for the two of us to allow each some time alone in the cockpit at night. It’s the part I like best about offshore sailing, and what I’d been missing ... Read More
May 21, 0900
Low, grey clouds overhead. They’re moving off to our right, carried by the chilly northerly wind. A few hints of blue sky are visible to the north. Thane & Brenda are on watch. It’s dry outside, but cool. They’re in fully foulies, gloves & wool hats. The wind has a bite to it, especially without the warming sun overhead. It’s a proper North Atlantic day today.
Isbjorn romps east on 60 degrees apparent under small sails – triple-reefed mainsail & double-reefed genoa, the staysail rigged and furled on the foredeck just in case. We’re slightly under-canvassed now, ... Read More
May 18, 1000
The wind is sloooowly filling in from the NNW. We motored all night after trying to tack offshore once through Town Cut, 18 hours in total, setting sail finally at 0400 this morning. When the sea is flat we can make 4-5 knots in only 6-7 knots apparent, close-reaching. When the odd wave slews the boat around the sails slat and we slow right down. The forecast is in our favor though – if it holds true, it looks like we’ll have wind, and behind us, for the next ten days…
All hands on deck for ... Read More
Before we dive into the start of our trans-Atlantic, let’s recap our arrival and layover in Bermuda. If you haven’t seen it yet, check out a few videos we posted on our Instagram (instagram.com/59northsailing) and Facebook pages (facebook.com/59north) – they show better than I can tell how it went down.
We had a SERIOUSLY gnarly arrival in Bermuda, the wind building and building from the SW as we made landfall south of Gibb’s Hill light. We made it all the way on celestial, so it was special seeing the lighthouse appear before the dawn right where ... Read More
9 May, 0400
Despite the early hour, there’s the slightest hint of the coming dawn in the sky to the east. The night is crystal clear, and crisp. For the first time since November I have on a fleece to ward off the chill. And thanks to the northerly wind, it’s a DRY chill, a feeling I’ve been looking forward too all winter long through the oppressive Caribbean heat & humidity.
The wind came back at midnight, a light northerly, but enough to set sail. We’d been motoring since dinner time on a flat calm sea. Though our course should ... Read More
8 May, 1600
Isbjorn is running wing on wing on the starboard tack, the genoa poled out to catch the SE’ly breeze. The wind is steady and she’s making 5-6 knots, but the sea is confused and the sails slat hard in the worst rolls. There’s a NW’ly swell rolling in from our left, opposing the wind-driven SE’ly swell and corkscrewing the boat around at times.
The sky off of our port quarter is a fearful shade of grey, and there’s rain in the clouds behind us. Up to now, all the weather has come from the E, as it ... Read More
6 May, 0800
An early morning for Isbjorn’s crew. We’re all rested after a night of teetotaling in preparation for today’s departure. The boat’s ready to go…the afternoon before we basically completed the pre-departure checklist. All that’s left this morning is to top up the water tanks, unplug the shore power and pay our bill at Nanny Cay.
The crew’s assembled in the cockpit for the morning briefing, our last at the dock. Mia & I complete the orientation now that we’ve finished stowing all the provisions. I assign roles for the start – Mike & Tom will be job ... Read More
It feels like we’ve been in the Caribbean forever. The heat in Nanny Cay Marina is oppressive. We’ve been dockside since Monday morning, and with no air conditioning aboard Isbjorn, it’s impossible to be inside the boat during the daytime, and only slightly more possible to get comfortably to sleep at night.
We’re berthed nose-to-nose with Sojourner, my dad’s boat, whose also headed north to Bermuda. Once in St. Georges, however, Sojourner will head northwest, bound for her home waters in Annapolis, while Isbjorn will point the bows east for points unknown to her in the Azores, Scotland & ultimately ... Read More
With yesterday’s classification of Tropical Storm ‘Arlene,’ an extremely rare tropical event in April, lots of discussion has been floating around Facebook and social media among offshore sailors, a lot of it drama-fueled malarkey. I wanted some facts on ‘Arlene’ – the weather in the Atlantic is top of my mind right now as we plan for our upcoming Trans-At in May – and I had some questions I wanted answered. Jeremy Davis, a lead forecaster at WRI, and Isbjorn’s primary weather-router (who is also an extreme tropical weather nerd, dating back to his childhood) – provided me ... Read More