Southeast Asia is an appealing region for boat hauling and refits because of the combination of low costs and skilled workers. The Philippines, Malaysia, and Thailand have shipyards where everything from carpentry to stainless work is available and relatively expensive. Our needs were more modest- just a new bottom, a few through hulls. A combination of timing, opportunity, and economy led us to choose to haul Totem at the Phithak Shipyard and Services in Thailand.
We put time into getting prepared before arrival- the next hurdle for hauling at PSS is just getting there, winding up an inlet of unforgiving shallows with high and rising tide.…
Posted by Paul Calder // December 7, 2013 // COMMENT (0 Comments)
Boats and Gear, Maintenance, chainplates, deck core, DIY repair, Dynex Dux, epoxy, fiberglass, Great Stuff, lifelines, rigging, sail repair, synthetic rigging, water damage, water tanks, West System
A big reason for writing this blog was to document work on my own boat. Here are links to all the posts about DIY repair and building things. Keep in mind that the way I did a repair is not necessarily the ‘right’ way to do it! This was especially true early on in the process.
FIBERGLASS AND EPOXY:
Building A Cockpit Sole:
Pt. 1: Getting Started
Pt. 2: Laying Fiberglass
Pt. 3: Fairing Mistakes
Repairing Rotten Deck Core:
Pt. 1: Anatomy of a Water-Damaged Deck
Pt. 2: Repairing and Sealing Minor Damage
Pt. 3: Replacing the Core I
Solenoid, as an electrical term, covers a lot of ground and can get very complicated, but for boats solenoids are pretty simple. A solenoid, or solenoid relay, is a magnetic switch used for remotely switching power. Anywhere you’ve got a big electrical load that needs to be switched is ripe for a solenoid, especially if the load is in a remote location.
Every engine has a solenoid on the electric starter. This is because the starter requires a lot of amperage, so to actually switch the load to the starter would mean running cables as big as your thumb up to the helm (or the dashboard of your car) where you would have to switch the load with some gigantic knife switch out of a Frankenstein movie.…
It’s been said that the definition of cruising is performing maintenance in exotic locations. We recently hauled Totem for new anti-fouling paint, four through hull replacements, and a few other projects. Living the definition, propped high and dry on the hard.
We had not hauled Totem since April 2008. Five and a half years is a pretty phenomenal stretch without new bottom paint, but we did a lot of barnacle scraping in the last year. Definitely overdue.
Cruising generally comes with the gift (the luxury) of time, which is a good idea when hauling out. It’s all too easy for “project creep” to set in, especially when presented with the opportunity for quality work at bargain rates.…
Written by Ben Ellison on Dec 4, 2013 for Panbo, The Marine Electronics Hub
That’s a darn impressive photo, I think. When Gizmo was hauled on November 22, she hadn’t been out of the water since May 2012, and most of that copper-free Interlux Pacifica Plus bottom paint had already endured a seven-month test in 2011, as I wrote about then. So, after more than three seasons, most of the running surfaces are still slick (and probably still self-cleaning when the boat occasionally goes fast). I did use the remains of the original two gallons to repaint the belly band before the 2012 launch; Gizmo lay in cleansing South Carolina fresh water from November that year through March of this year, and I scrubbed the belly band from the tender last July.…
Here I will try to distill some basic information common to all watermakers. I won’t hide the fact that I’m affiliated with Spectra Watermakers (I’m a consultant there), but I cruised for ten years and became intimate, oh-so-intimate, with a Katadyne, nee PUR, nee Recovery Engineering PowerSurvivor 35 then 40:
First of all, if you’re not planning to do some serious cruising, don’t get a watermaker! A watermaker will be the most maintenance intensive device you have aboard. They take constant vigilance and care, and the second you install one and first expose it to sea water, so begins the long (or short) decline of the membrane, the specialized “filter” that separates fresh water from salt.…
Jamie and I co-author the cruising column for 48° North, a Pacific Northwest regional boating magazine. Our article for November is based on lessons learned while Jamie worked to help our friends on sv Tahina recover from a lightning strike.
Flash, Crack! And Ozone
Tioman Island in Malaysia, with its mountainous interior and great snorkeling was the perfect destination after months in muddy Borneo. At Tioman we reconnected with Tahina, a St. Francis 50 catamaran, and owners Frank and Karen. After a few days of startling reef fish with Tahina’s remote operated vehicle (ROV) submarine, she sailed from Tioman for Singapore and the Straits of Malacca.…
We woke up on Monday to discover the boat was sinking. On my way to the bathroom, I heard an unwelcome drip drip sound coming from beneath the companionway. We pulled up the floorboards, and, sure enough, the centerboard trunk was leaking. The bilge was full. We were going down.
“Ugh,” I said, slapping the bilge pump switch. “Does it have to be now? I haven’t even made tea yet.”
Erik stared at the spitting centerboard and sighed. “Well. Let’s get ‘er fixed.”
|Those are little darts of water jetting out of the centerboard trunk. Not happy morning news.
Where, you might ask, was our natural panic and discomfort as our home slowly slipped into The Big Blue? …
A common boatyard misdeed is to install a thru-hull like this,
All images courtesy of Groco
then screw on a ball valve like this,
with an appropriate tailpiece connected to some item of plumbing below the waterline. This is done all the time, but it’s bad practice for several reasons:
1. The threads don’t match. I’m not the first to write about this: If you go here, on Compass Marine’s excellent technical blog, he has even cut a fitting in half to show the difference in the threads.
The thru-hull has straight threads (NPS, National Pipe Straight) and the ball valve has pipe threads (NPT, National Pipe Taper).…
I hate to admit it, but after sailing two-thousand odd miles to get to Maine this summer I hardly did any sailing when I got there. Almost from the first day I got caught up in land life and before I noticed its passage summer was at its end. So instead of trying to gather a crew to head right back where I came from, I decided to winter the boat in Maine and take the time next summer to explore the coast. I got very lucky with the haulout.
The mooring I’ve been on for the summer is owned by Riverside Boat Company, a little yard very close to my parent’s house.…