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July 23rd

Arrival!

Posted by // July 23, 2013 // COMMENT (2 Comments)

Cruising,

Ah, Maine, in the summertime. It feels good to be back. I’m writing this from my parent’s living room, where I can look out on Damariscotta Harbor and see my little boat moored amongst a number of classic skiffs and sailing dories. On a day like today even the motorboats out there are pleasing to the eye. We arrived two nights ago with the impeccable timing which has carried us on this trip, and is born of pure luck. Sailing thirty-odd hours from Buzzards Bay and then motoring up fifteen nautical miles of Damariscotta river with a rising tide we rounded the last daymarks just as they were becoming indistinguishable. With the ten foot tide we were able to tie up at the dock of some old family friends for a very welcome meal.

Nothing says Maine like a good lobster pot obstacle course

Mike, our host, had arranged a mooring for us with Paul Bryant, an old salt whose family has been building wooden boats on the Damariscotta River for generations. Bryant is the long-time harbormaster as well as owner/operator of Riverside Boat Co. and allows transient boaters to stay for free on his marina’s spare moorings. According to the local Lincoln County News he was paid a small sum in 2009 for his service as harbormaster. This was the first time he had been paid and as soon as Bryant figured out what had happened he told the town not to do it again. As for us, Bryant told Mike that we could grab any empty mooring and Mike passed this news on with a chuckle. See, Mike used to own a cruising catamaran, the only catamaran in Damariscotta harbor, and when he got his mooring Bryant told him he couldn’t stand the sight of the thing and assigned him the furthest ball from town!

At rest in Damariscotta Harbor

This is what I love about Maine. Second only to Alaska in the length of its coastline, much of that coast is still working waterfronts, small towns where generations have lived, and thrived on the sea. Beautifully crafted wooden boats still abound, and unlike the million-dollar yachts of Cape Code and the Martha’s Vineyard many of these are sailing dories and working boats that swing with the tide on moorings marked by old fenders or roughly hacked out cubes of blue styrofoam. In these towns even when modern fiberglass boats make up the majority they still seem a bit out of place.

During the golden age of sail Maine timber was crafted into some of the world’s finest ships and even Damariscotta Harbor was once a great port. Despite its being fifteen miles from the sea, enormous clipper ships were built here, presumably floated downriver on the highest spring tides. Take the B.F. Metcalf, a hundred and eighty foot long three-master of a thousand tons. It was built here in 1875 and in this picture you can see the Damaricsotta-Newcastle Bridge just behind it.

Keep in mind the current depth in this harbor is around 15′ at low tide!

These days Damariscotta is a sleepy town mostly given over to tourism in the summers, but it is still full of lovely old boats. There aren’t any more clipper ships but there remain a couple of small builders, like Bryant, who are building wooden boats in a tradition as old as New England.

This article was syndicated from Safe At Harbour But Meant For The Sea: DIY Sailing with Paul Calder

2 Responses to “Arrival!”

  1. Candy M on Endeavor says:

    Hi Paul, congrats on your safe passage! Please pass along regards to Nigel and Terri from us (Candy and David). We aren’t bringing Endeavor to East Boothbay this summer but we will drive up for 10 days over Labor Day to close the cottage for my Mum.
    Maybe we can get together then…Please write or call with a way to contact you/them in Damariscotta. 980-395-4618

  2. Nick says:

    Paul

    I am happy to read you had a safe trip to Maine. Your mention of Damariscotta bay from your parents living room brings back a lot of good memories. Sorry I was in the Ct area to get you mooring in Niantic Bay.

    Would love to read more about your trip, number of crew and higlights. Have a great summer in Maine, how long are you staying and are you cruising on the Maine Coast.

    Nick and Joan

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